MONARCH 1930's AVIATOR MEANDERING ZIP HALF BELT LEATHER HORSE HIDE JACKET BUILD

Description: You are now admiring some of my custom work. In this case a design that I refer to as my meandering off set zip Monarch jacket. This reproduction jacket comes from a prolific long time favorite vintage jacket maker of mine. Patterned by using a rare pre-War vintage design of an original jacket from within my personal collection. Let me tell you all about it! This proposed jacket build (sized 36 through 48) will be done as a mid 1930's Aviator with an off set zipper in the Half Belt style. Your jacket will be very well appointed with all those available accouterments as seen back in the day. All of which now make my jackets so great and an absolute pleasure to wear. This particular jacket's design has an unusual off set zipper configuration. Rarely seen, as it's zipper set up complicates the build. As a result of it's off set and curve is not at all conducive to mass production. No doubt exactly why this design is no longer made today by any modern mass production jacket makers. Most notably it's unique meandering zipper configuration adds volumes to this jacket's great look. Included in the descriptive images are two different versions of this proposed build. One utilizes large panels and the other is pieced. The pieced type panel is generally done using goat hides. As they are typically smaller sized hides and the pieced panels then allow goat hide to be used. In addition, this jacket can be done in either buttoned or zip type cuffs. There are also different back panel options.A number of back panel designs are seen withing the descriptive images. In addition, a standard up grade with this build will include half gusseted sleeve assemblies. All of which i have expertly duplicated for all size jackets from a beyond rare early 1940's Monarch MFG. motorcycle type jacket remains in my personal vintage jacket collection as a permanent reference. These half gusseted sleeves create both mobility of for wearer and greatly enhances the look of the jacket. Most notably these same half gussets were once exclusively seen used on early Beck Northeaster Flying Togs jackets. Not to mention, this same half gusset sleeve set up was once widely used as an upgrade on higher end jackets throughout the 1930's. Particularly aviation type transitional jackets and motor cycle jackets in general & as seen on my earliest example (dated to 1932 to 1934) from within my personal collection. Then and for the most part done away with the on set of WW-2. The proposed outer shell seen on the first example is a vegetable tanned horse hide with a slow wear top coat aka Vicenza/Victory horsehide. The color choices are russet, brown or black. This horsehide was acquired by me from Italy which I had specially made for my use. It is a medium weight that will require some break in but only just. All hardware to be used to build this fine jacket is period correct. The main zipper assembly being a grommet type reproduction Talon zipper. The front pocket zipper being a period correct original vintage Talon ball and chain Talon slider. Your jacket will come with an inside welted pocket and the same upgraded double stitch work for the slash and pistol pockets as seen on the jacket's front panels in the provided jacket image examples. The back panel of choice for this particular build is a double arch yoked triple pleated action back panel as seen in the descriptive images. When combined with the half gussets will both add much to your jacket's fantastic looks and increased mobility. Your jacket's suggested lining and as seen used in the attached is a light to medium (heavy shirt weight) or 7 oz cotton twill. If that does not suit you I upgrade it. As seen all set up with inset 100% wool cuffs included & exactly as done by Monarch back in the day. To keep this jacket in the spirit of the 1930's your jacket will be stitched using 100% cotton. Buttonholes will be done using my modern Keyhole Buttonhole machine. As I recently retired my vintage Reece 101 Keyhole Buttonhole machine. More than capable of creating a superior keyhoe buttonhole without fail. In addition I have acquired the same double needle machine originally used by Monarch that allows me to create French seamed jackets in their entirety. To include the lower sleeve seams as seen done exactly as originally made by Monarch back in the day. All lending it's self to a wonderful added touch of authenticity. An upgrade seldom if ever seen on reproduction jackets as again, these features do not lend it's self well to mass production. With any of my given jackets & to create the absolute best build possible I use up to five completely different machines to create a given jacket. As previously explained two of which were the exact same as originally used by Monarch MFG. on their builds back in the day. Your jacket can be upgraded with a detachable mouton collar and as seen in the second to the last descriptive image. Another suggested optional upgrade would include zipped sleeve ends in lieu of buttoned cuffs. Moreover, I recently acquired some fine looking vegetable tanned goat hide in that is available in a russet, black or chocolate brown that would make for a great looking build verses horse hide. As seen in the last several descriptive image I've included images of other (size 42 & 46) of my meandering off set zip jackets. Done in a light russet goat hide. However, in this case, that goat hide jacket was done using multiple front panels and another upgrade option to consider. If interested please contact me & I can provide more info, images and exact pricing. Currently, there is a waiting period for all new builds. Please feel free to PM me David Sheeley with any questions and looking forward to hearing from you!

Price: 2100 USD

Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia

End Time: 2023-11-19T13:38:07.000Z

Shipping Cost: 58 USD